Day of the Dead ~ Sicilian Style

The first couple of days of November are treasured by the Italians. Celebrations are anxiously awaited and are full of Italian tradition. The 1st of November, All Saints’ Day, is a religious and national holiday known as “Tutti i Santi”, which is dedicated to honoring all of the saints. All Saints' Day is followed by “Il Giorno dei Morti”, or The Day of the Dead, on the 2nd of November, a day devoted to celebrating the loved ones who have passed away. This is not a sad day in any way. It is a day where 'two worlds' meet to celebrate life.

 

Parents tell their children that if in fact, during the year were good and recited prayers for the souls of the dead, the souls of the "dead" will bring them presents. Children go to bed with the hopes to wake up to find presents left for them from “i muorti”. One of the traditional sayings for the children to ask for presents is this:

"Armi santi, armi santi,


Io sugnu unu e vuatri siti tanti
,

Mentri sugnu 'ntra stu munnu di guai,


Cosi di morti mittitiminni assai."

"Holy souls, holy souls,


I am one, and you are many,


While I am in this world of troubles,


Bring me lots of presents from dead people."

As usual with Sicilians, food is a big component of this festivity and traditions vary from town to town. One of the most renowned treats that is made for this occasion is Frutta di Martorana, which are marzipan sweets made of almond paste that are expertly crafted to look like fruits and vegetables.

On occasion you will find some crafted into unexpected shapes, like fried eggs and brioche stuffed with what looks to be gelato, but is actually crafted out of almond paste.

Sweets called Bones of the Dead or "ossa ri muortu" are cookies that are either biscotti shaped into bones or a very dry meringue resembling white bones.

Although Halloween is not traditionally celebrated in Sicily, it is creeping into the scene here and there.

I was lucky to be in Taormina on October 31st, and was delighted to see children trick-or-treating. Seeing little ghouls and witches popping into the boutique shops to collect candy from the shop owners made for a fun stroll along the Corso Umberto.

Even some grown-up "kids" got into the action with their brightly colored pumpkin costumes.

 

Taken In By Taormina

THE BEAUTY OF TAORMINA IS CAPTIVATING!

It is my belief that no trip to Sicily should be without a stop in what is one of the prettiest towns I have ever seen! Taormina is one of Sicily’s top travel destinations and now it is also mine! This small wonder curves around the side of a mountain 1000 feet above the Ionian Sea, in the Province of Messina. It is charming as all-get-out and is filled with so many rare and wonderful things to see that you will want to plan at least two days to truly enjoy it. Thankfully, we only live about forty-five minutes away, which has given me the opportunity to see the town a few times each season. It’s magical any time of year, but I have to say that fall and spring have been the best times to travel there, as winter can be surprisingly cold and summer brings far too many tourists for me to take in all the beauty Taormina has to offer.

View of Giardini Naxos, where the Greeks first landed in Sicily

It’s no wonder so many writers, artists, photographers and poets have been smitten by Taormina, and it is no wonder that the Greeks chose to build the most spectacular theater I have seen right into the peak of the mountain. The breathtaking views of the tip-end of Calabria, mainland Italy’s “boot”, and Mount Etna will leave you wondering if there is way you can sell off your assets, leave your life behind, and find a small apartment somewhere along the terrace above the sparkling Ionian Sea!

Isola Bella and The Ionian Sea

A double rainbow looking towards Messina and Calabria...THIS WAS MAGICAL!
  

The Greek Theater built in the 3rd century BC

Before I arrived in Sicily, my mom gave me Daphne Phelps’ book “A House in Sicily”. I wouldn’t put this on my favorite list of books, but it did describe the fascinating life Daphne led in Taormina after she inherited Casa Cuseni, a grand villa that was left to her by her uncle when he passed away. In 1948, Daphne arrived from England with the sole purpose of selling the house, but ended up staying for fifty years...not surprisingly! She, too, was taken in by Taormina and did everything she could to maintain the villa and stay until her death in 2005. Today, Casa Cuseni, which is a place I have yet to discover, is now planned to be opened as a museum. This will certainly make for another excuse for me to go to Taormina!

I will leave you will these photos to gaze upon in hopes that you discover something about Taormina that tugs on your spirit.

 The Fountain in the Botanical Garden

Shopping along Taormina's Corso Umberto

 A rare photo of me walking along the back streets of Taormina

One of the many beautiful balconies

The Pastrecceria shops just off the Corso Umberto...so sweet!

The Church of San Guiseppe below the town of Castelmola

 The Cafe Wunderbar, which was one of Tennessee Williams favorite spots to hangout.

 

ONE OF THOSE RARE MOMENTS IN LIFE...   

Mount Etna with a spark of lava...TRULY MAGNIFICENT! 

~

 MORE TO COME ON TAORMINA...

Favorite Restaurant: Trattoria Da Nino

Favorite Place to Stay: Hotel Villa Paradiso

Trattoria da Nino ~ Taormina's Best!

TRATTORIA DA NINO
WE'VE NEVER HAD IT SO GOOD!

Why eat anywhere else?

The food is to die for…

Just a couple of minutes walk off the famous shopping street, Corso Umberto in Taormina, Trattoria da Nino is waiting for you with open arms.

 Gianluca and Jacqueline

We have been living in Sicily for almost two years and one of the highlights of living here is the Sicilian cuisine. Rich dishes prepared lovingly in slow-food fashion. 

We’ve been all over this island and nothing compares to the exquisite food and camaraderie that you will find at Trattoria da Nino. The food is authentic, the patrons are locals and the atmosphere is fresh, modern and lively. It's so good, we're going there again tomorrow!

Mixed Seafood Pastas

The real gems are the people who own and run the restaurant: Nino, with his talent for speaking many foreign languages, always greets us with a warm hug. 

Gianluca, we now call our “brother from another mother”, is full of endless energy and charm. He never ceases to be sure that we are totally taken care of each and every time we visit. Gianluca has become a great friend indeed!

 

Nino and Gianluca

Sebastiano, Reese, Gianluca and Stephen

Sebastiano, who is very attentive to detail, sees that you always have the right glass and correct utensil for the occasion with a friendly smile. Thumbs up!

I can say, without a doubt, these folks are the most genuine people we have come across in ALL of our restaurant experiences…EVER! They have been gracious and generous beyond words!

~ 

NOW, FOR THE FOOD...

Trattoria da Nino offers the best of the best in seafood dishes that surpass any other seafood I've eaten while living in Sicily. One of my favorite starters is their "Sicilian Sushi". Red prawns from Mazara del Vallo and fresh sashimi marinated in Sicilian orange juice. They are sweet, delicate and melt in your mouth! 

 

Other favorites include top quality tuna, which they serve carpaccio style (See first food photo), and their grilled fish dishes that are cooked to perfection!

Grilled Sea Bass 

 

Their Spaghetti con Vongole and Calamari and Shrimp Fritti and are some of the most delicious I've found on the island.

Spaghetti con Vongole

Calamari and Shrimp Fritti

I think I have eaten the Spaghetti con Vongole at least half of my visits there! 

Jacqueline with the best Spaghetti con Vongole

  

However, there is one particular chicken dish that is out of this world…

the Pollo al Diavolo ("The Devil's Chicken"). 

Mouth-watering, tender and with just enough spice...

Fact: my stomach just growled like I was smuggling a lion just thinking about it!

~

OTHER SPECIALTIES...

Homemade Cassata Cake 

with a CD of Mario Biondi that Gianluca gave us for Christmas!

Peach liquor and Limoncello

Grappa for the brave, and biscotti to top it off...heaven!

~

If you ever find yourself in Taormina, please be sure to venture off the Corso and make your way over to Trattoria da Nino. You are sure to find the best Sicilian cuisine served by warm and wonderful people in this most authentic trattoria.

And...they are a fur-friendly environment! What’s not to love!

Hercules, the sweetest King Charles Spaniel

Trattoria da Nino

Via Luigi Pirandello, 37
98039 Taormina Messina, Italy
0942 21265

 

A Little Lava

This was being at the right place at the right time.

Mt. Etna dressed in snow with a little bit of lava to boot! I took this shot shortly after midnight from our hotel room's patio at The Hotel Villa Paradiso in Taormina, Sicily. Patiently waiting for over an hour for the sky to get clear enough to see the mountain top really paid off! I didn't realize the shot I got until I returned home and saw it blow up on my computer screen!